I opened the door of the Suburban and swung out my legs. The thud of my wading boots on the packed, dry earth startled me back to attention. I’d been hypnotized for the last hour, sitting in the back seat and staring out the window, while the truck was slowly maneuvered across the roadless ranchland.

It was the view. That view! It was magnificent. Mesmerizing. The air was so clear and unpolluted that the sky was Technicolor blue. Was that actually real? It could have been a movie set.
Closing the door behind me, I turned around to take it all in. Miles upon miles of dusty earth. Parched brush hurling tumbleweed-style in the ever-present winds. Native guanaco (a camelid) and nandu (Darwin’s rhea) roamed and grazed freely, while rabbits and armadillos scurried along. The...

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